| กกกก | |
A casual glance down any city street in Korea quickly indicates Western dress is the garb of
choice among the bulk of the Korean population. However, some people, especially women,
frequently choose to wear the Korean traditional costume, Hanbok, over Western clothing as a
matter convenience, or to suit particular occasions, festivals and ceremonies such as
weddings, holidays, or 60th birthday celebrations.
The history of Hanbok goes back to the era of the Three Kingdoms (4th - 7th century A.D.) - Koguryo, Paekche and Shilla. The first record of Hanbok was found on wall paintings in the Koguryo tombs of kings and nobles. It is said that Koguryo's clothing had been influenced by the clothing and Buddhism of China's Dang Dynasty. The clothing of the later Yongan era of China was introduced to Korea through the successive intermarriages of Korean kings and Mongolian princesses, a development which quite possibly served to affect the development of Hanbok.
Hanbok has not changed largely in style since ancient times. It may be made of coarse hemp, cotton, or lavish, colorful silk. The basic hanbok dress for men consists of a chogori (jacket), chokki (vest), paji (trousers) and turumagi (overcoat). The women's dress includes a chogori (jacket), chima (skirt) and turumagi (overcoat). The women's chogori is a short blouse tied at the front and which has long, full sleeves. The chima (skirt) is a full-length, billowing, wrap-around skirt that ties tightly under the arms, flattening the breasts. The female shape is completely hidden under this attire. Above the chima (skirt), the Korean woman wears a chogori (jacket). Characterized by loose, long sleeves and fastened at the breast by a long bow, the chogori is a short jacket which reaches only to the top of the skirt. In the winter, women may also wear a turumagi, a long overcoat in the same style as the chogori. As the Hanbok traditionally has no pockets, women also carry a small drawstring purse known as a chumoney.
On her feet the traditionally-attired woman wears tight-fitting cotton or padded socks called peoson, which help her feet slip neatly into the rubber shoes called komushin. Komushin are distinctive in that their unique style features curving, pointed toes rather resembling the roof tiles used in traditional buildings.
Paji, the loose-fitting trousers worn by men, are held up by a sash tied at the waist. Men also wear a loose-fitting, waist-length chogori (jacket), similar in style to that of the women, over which he wears a chokki (vest). Men, like women, wear a peoson and komushin, and in the winter a turumagi (overcoat).
Footwear traditionally worn with the Hanbok included canoe-shaped wood, thatch or silk shoes generally flat in shape and featuring a very slight heel. These days, though, they are generally forsaken in preference for modern footwear and komushin (rubber shoes).
As for hair styles, men in ancient days wore a topknot or braided pig tail. Women wore their hair in a long braid that hung down their back until marriage. Once married, a woman pulled her braided hair back and knotted it at the nape of her neck with a large decorative stick like hair pin. However, such hair styles are hardly seen nowadays.
Hanbok has come down to us through the centuries largely unchanged in its basic design, save for minor changes in the length of chogori (jacket) and in the width of sleeves and skirt.. Hanbok is usually made with silk, cotton or ramie fabric, the choice of color varying according to the season and the age and social status of the wearer. The shape of Hanbok is always the same. The typical length of material used to make a single Hanbok is 18 meters, although the clothing itself is light and easy to put on.
There are some 50,000 Hanbok workshops in Korea, and 380,000 persons work in Hanbok- related businesses. To encourage the wearing of the nation's traditional dress, the Korean government has designated the first Saturday of every month as 'Hanbok Day.' To the same end, the government has instituted a new policy whereby anyone wearing Hanbok can enter free of charge national historic buildings such as Seoul's famous Kyoungbok Palace.
The rounded style of Hanbok, at once practical and friendly, typifies in its way, the spirit of Korean people. Its colorfulness and beauty have served to establish and enhance its reputation internationally.
Public and private events organized by Koreans overseas regularly feature Hanbok, serving to make it and its beauty synonymous with Korea. Designers have modernized its style in an endeavor to make hanbok-wearing more of a fashion statement. In the not too distant future, Hanbok will be recognized worldwide as one of Korea's major national symbols.
(http://koreaexpo.gnc.co.kr/kimchi/)
(http://kimchi.kfri.re.kr/)
by Soo-Deuk Sohn
