N ajon-Chilgi, traditional wooden lacquerware that has been inlaid with designs made of mother-of-pearl, is truly a cultural asset of Korea. The art of Najon-Chilgi is used to make items both large and small, from jewelry boxes to chests, dressers and desks..

I t has been established that lacquerware originated during the Nakrang Era in the 1st century B.C., since several lacquerware pieces have been discovered in ruins from that time. The three Asian countries of Korea, Japan and China all developed different methods of decorating their lacquerware. While in Korea techniques arose using inlaid mother-of-pearl, in China lacquerware was carved after being lacquered (chilgi), and in Japan the designs were drawn on the lacquerware with gold and silver powders, exemplifying the extensive nature of the lacquerware art.

T he two main materials used in making Najon-Chilgi are the lacquer coating and mother-of-pearl. Korean mother-of-pearl, once known as the Jewel of the Orient, is made from oyster or clam shells retrieved from the pristine waters off Tong-Yong on the southern coast of Korea and is known as saekpae or "colored shells." The colors of Korean saekpae, deep and mysterious, are said to be more beautiful and fascinating than the most precious of jewels. Lacquerware is often decorated with dainty mother-of-pearl flowers, using tin or bronze wire to depict vines and sometimes pieces of turtle shells are used for variety.

T he lacquer used in Najon-Chilgi is natural, collected from lacquer trees and then processed to create different colors. Lacquer is moisture-resistant, heat-resistant and antiseptic. Because of its moisture-resistance, it is often used as a finishing on luxury cars, undersea fiber optics, and the hulls of ship and submarines. It is now being used on high-quality musical instruments, fountain pens, lighters and bicycles, and new uses are still being discovered for this versatile material.

I n days gone by, Koreans even used lacquer for medicinal purposes, and it was an accepted treatment for gastric disorders and other maladies. A health tea can be made from the seeds taken from the fruit of the lacquer tree. According to recent research, it may even be effective in the fight against cancer, especially against gastric and liver cancer.

T o produce a piece of Najon-Chilgi according to traditional methods, four craftsman are required: the Paekgolijang to draw the patterns; the Chiljang to apply the lacquer; the Najonjang to inlay the mother-of-pearl; and the Changsokjang to manufacture and attach the metal hinges and rings, making it a truly cooperative effort. Because of the intricacies of the process, the government has designated Najon-Chilgi as an Intangible Cultural Asset and actively encourages and supports artisans to perfect and hand down the ancient techniques of making inlaid mother-of-pearl lacquerware.

by Soo-Deuk Sohn